Changes at the Griffith Observatory

The Griffith Observatory was always one of my favorite spots in LA, growing up. It was kind of a rag-tag landmark, with a cheesy planetarium show and spectacular views (on a clear day) of all around the city, from downtown to the Hollywood sign to the giant-mound-by-the-ocean that is Palos Verdes. My father used to drive the family there, on a whim, to see the city lights. I remember being driven up a dark, winding road through Griffith park, walking along the covered walkway that wraps around the exterior of the Observatory, brushing past strangers and searching for a good spot to lean over and admire.

The Observatory closed about 4 years ago for major renovations, and reopened this month. Jen and Jason got us some reservations to go visit, so this morning we parked at the bottom of the hill beneath the Observatory and hiked a short way up to it. For now, they're only allowing people up on a reservation basis, because they're expecting a crush of visitors in the first few months and want to do crowd control. My review of the renovated building:

What's bad - The place has lost some of its old charm. The exhibits are more sophisticated and polished than before, with a Smithsonian feel, but I couldn't find this one exhibit I used to like where you had to push little buttons and try to match groupings of stars to the right constellations. That was fun as a kid. Other small changes that make me long for the old days: the coin-operated telescopes on the outside of the building are gone. Gone also is the raggedy little gift shop that used to sell silly things like glow-in-the-dark sticker kits of the planets and stars for your bedroom ceiling.

What's good - The changes don't hit you at once, because most of them occurred underground or are simply replacements of old things. Everything's clean and spiffy. The museum is twice the size it used to be, thanks to the underground expansion. I hear the seats in the planetarium are super cushy and much better than the old ones with wooden head rests. There's a big cafe with Wolfgang Puck food and outdoor seating with nice views. The giant pendulum that greets you at the entrance is still there, ready to puzzle a new crop of kids with how it proves the earth is spinning.

Another addition I really liked: They have added a long, curved hallway with a glass display all along one side that contained thousands of pieces of inexpensive jewelry fashioned into stars, suns, and moons, arranged in a milky-way type of pattern. It strikes you as kind of kitschy, all these metal and plastic trinkets that you might find in a dusty case at an antique shop. Until you step back and realize how touching it is, really, that humans are so fascinated by the heavenly bodies that we so often incorporate these symbols into our daily lives, without even being conscious of it nowadays. Think of the gold stars that your teacher gave you.

Overall, the Observatory's suffered a little from the changes, which makes me sad. But it's still a grand old landmark. It still inspires. Which is what Griffith J. Griffith always wanted for the citizens of LA. Even if he did shoot his wife in the face.